Handcrafted Performance Costumes

Garment Care

Competition costumes are built for stage lighting and hard movement, not for laundry day. Almost every costume we see damaged was damaged in a washing machine.

The short version

  • Hand wash cold. Always.
  • Never wring, never twist.
  • Dry flat, out of direct sun. Never in a tumble dryer.
  • Never iron a decorated area, and never dry clean a stoned garment.
  • Air it out after every wear, even when you are not washing it.

Most costumes need a full wash far less often than people assume. Sweat is the real enemy, and airing a garment properly after each wear does more for its life than washing it does.

How to hand wash

  1. Fill a basin with cold water and a small amount of a gentle detergent made for delicates. Skip anything containing bleach, brighteners or fabric softener — softener coats fibres and dulls both sparkle and stretch.
  2. Turn the garment inside out where the decoration allows.
  3. Submerge and press gently. Do not rub, scrub or agitate.
  4. Let it sit no more than ten minutes. Long soaks loosen stone glue.
  5. Rinse in clean cold water until no suds remain.
  6. Press the water out between two towels. Do not wring.
  7. Lay flat on a dry towel, reshape, and leave until completely dry.

Care by decoration

Rhinestones and crystals

Almost always glued. Heat and solvents are what release them, so keep the water cold, keep it away from the dryer, and never dry clean. Store flat rather than hung — a heavily stoned bodice is surprisingly heavy and will stretch its own shoulders over a season on a hanger. See Rhinestones.

Spangles and sequins

Spangles are heat-set, so an iron will melt them outright. Sewn sequins snag on everything, including each other. Turn the garment inside out to wash, and keep it away from hook-and-loop fastenings in the bag. See Spangles & Sequins.

Sublimated print

The dye is in the fibre, so it cannot crack or peel and it tolerates washing better than anything else on this page. It can still fade in prolonged direct sunlight — dry it in the shade. See Sublimation Printing.

Heat-pressed vinyl

Vinyl lifts at the edges when it is flexed hot. Cold water, no dryer, and never place an iron directly on it. If a corner starts to lift, deal with it before the next wear rather than after. See Heat-Pressed Vinyl.

Embroidery

The most robust decoration there is, because it is thread through fabric rather than something stuck on top. Its weakness is snagging — a pulled thread on a satin stitch runs. See Embroidery.

Mesh, illusion and skin-tone panels

The most fragile part of most skating dresses. Fine mesh ladders like tights, and nude illusion yellows with age and with heat. Wash gently, keep it out of the dryer, and store away from anything with a hook or a zip.

Between wears

Turn the costume inside out and hang it somewhere airy for a few hours. If it needs freshening, a light mist of equal parts water and vodka on the lining kills odour without wetting the decoration — it evaporates and takes the smell with it. Do not spray perfume or deodoriser onto a stoned area.

Storage

  • Store heavily decorated pieces flat, in a garment bag, not on a wire hanger.
  • Keep them out of plastic bins that trap moisture, and out of attics and car boots — heat is what releases glue.
  • Put a layer of tissue between a stoned front and anything it is folded against.
  • Never store a costume that is even slightly damp.

When something comes off

Losing the occasional stone is normal on a garment that has competed, and it is fixable. Keep the piece, note where the gap is, and have it re-set with a proper stone adhesive rather than a general-purpose glue. Craft glue yellows, and it will show under lights.

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